Byodoin temple

On our last night in Kyoto, we took a train 30 minutes out to Uji, where our new friends Bill & Setsuko live. They had invited us over for dinner, and for a tour of Byodoin temple, which dates back to the 11th century. (At last! Something genuinely old that wasn't rebuilt in 1979 or 1923 or 1633. Or that we didn't destroy in World War II). This temple is featured on the 10 yen coin. Setsuko knows the history well, and she walked us around the temple grounds informing us of the many phases of the temple's history. Inside was a giant wooden Amida Buddha, over ten feet high, faded gold and carved by a master carver who influenced later representations of Buddha. Sofia was interested, and continues to talk about "Boo-doo" or "Boo-di," depending on her mood.

It was a nice break from the city. Uji was a peaceful town, and on a cold night, Setsuko prepared a delicious dish called "nabe" while we talked, a stew rich with noodles, rice, greens, shaved radishes, oysters and chicken. We also enjoyed steaming hot cups of roasted tea.

Again, the best part of our trip has been spending time with people who live here-- getting an insider's view on what is fascinating, wonderful, and frustrating about life here, as in any place, and trying to imagine what it would be like to live here. Especially in spending time with expatriates, I always picture the other cultures in which I've lived and traveled, and wonder about alternatve existences-- what it would be like if I lived here, for example, or if I'd never left those places and just decided to make a life there. I could so easily picture myself in Istanbul, where I lived for six months in 1995, yet I've never since been back. Or I wonder what might have happened if I'd randomly picked Japan in which to study abroad as a college junior rather than Morocco. These decisions are sometimes so arbitrary, yet weighty at the same time.